Butt Joint
Two boards simply placed end-to-face at 90° (or end-to-end).
Every joint worth knowing, from a glued butt to a wedged through tenon, a 槍角榣, 走馬銀, 腰掛継ぎ and a split-ring truss connector. Each one has its own diagram showing the actual cut geometry, a strength rating, how it is cut, where it belongs and how it fails.
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Chinese names are the established terms where they exist (燕尾榣, 榳角榣, 走馬銀, 金輪継) and a descriptive translation where there is no fixed term. The diagrams are hand-drawn technical schematics showing cut geometry — deliberately not photographs.
Two boards simply placed end-to-face at 90° (or end-to-end).
A butt joint reinforced with screws (or nails) driven through the face of one board into the end grain of the other.
Holes are bored in both pieces and a fluted dowel bridges the joint.
A lens-shaped compressed beech wafer is glued into matching slots cut in both pieces.
An angled pilot hole (the pocket) is bored into one board, so the screw passes through it and drives into the long gra.
A groove is cut in both mating faces and a separate strip — the spline — is glued in, bridging the two pieces with gen.
A bolt passes through one member into a barrel nut captured in a cross-drilled hole in the other.
Both boards are cut at exactly 45° so the corner closes with no end grain showing on the outside faces — the classic p.
A mitred corner with grooves cut straight across the joint from the outside.
Instead of a straight spline, dovetail-shaped keys are let into slots cut across the mitre.
The outer corner is mitred, but the joint behind it is a half-lap: each piece loses half its thickness so they overlap.
Three members meeting at one corner — a leg and two rails — each mitred so the joint reads as a single clean three-way.
A dovetail is cut inside a mitred corner, so the interlock is completely hidden: the outside shows a plain mitre, and .
Boards mitred at an angle other than 45° to make a ring — hexagonal, octagonal, or the segments of a turned bowl.
Each piece has exactly half its thickness removed at the mating area, so the two overlap flush top and bottom.
Two boards crossing at 90° in the same plane, each notched to half its thickness so they interlock flush — the classic.
One board's end laps onto the middle of another — a T rather than a corner.
A half-lap whose mating faces are dovetail-shaped instead of flat.
A lap given a proper tenon: the end of one piece is slotted into an open mortise, with a full-thickness tongue in the .
Two lengths are joined end to end on a long shallow bevel to make one continuous piece.
A scarf with a step (the table) cut into it and a wedge driven in behind the table.
A channel cut ACROSS the grain of one board (a dado) to receive the end or edge of another.
A dado that stops before it reaches the far edge of the board, so the channel never breaks out on a visible face.
A channel cut ALONG the grain of a board to receive a panel, a shelf, or a tongue.
An L-shaped step cut along the edge of a board so another board can sit into it.
The standard cabinet corner: the side gets a rebate to take the back panel AND a groove to take a shelf or horizontal .
A projecting tongue on the edge of one board fits a matching groove in the next.
Boards joined edge to edge to make a wider panel.
Interlocking square fingers cut on the ends of both boards.
A finger joint whose fingers stop short of the far face, so one board's outside face stays perfectly flat and unbroken.
A finger joint combined with a mitred outer corner.
A finger joint whose fingers are rounded off instead of squared.
The tenon is cut on the end of one piece and passes right through a mortise in the other, so its end grain shows on th.
A mortise that stops before it reaches the far face, with a matching stub tenon.
A tenon with a short full-thickness extension at its top edge, called the haunch.
A through tenon with saw kerfs cut in its end and wedges driven into them.
A blind tenon that is wedged inside the mortise.
A through tenon with a peg driven through it.
A through tenon that projects past the leg with a slot through it; a wedge-shaped tusk is driven through the slot from.
Two smaller tenons side by side instead of one wide one.
Neither piece has a tenon.
Wedge-shaped tails on one board interlock with pins on the other, and the tails pass right through so the pattern show.
The tails stop short of the far face, so the outside of the joint shows a clean flat board and only a thin line.
A dovetail-shaped tenon that slides lengthwise into a matching dovetail groove.
A sliding dovetail whose groove is stopped before the far end, so the tenon runs in from one end and comes up against .
A dovetail with small teeth instead of a full tail — three tails and four little pins in the space a normal dovetail u.
The Chinese rice-dumpling corner: a leg and two rails meeting at one corner, each face mitred so no end grain is visib.
A dovetail-shaped key driven into a matching slot across a joint.
The Japanese 'metal-ring splice' — a long diagonal scarf with a wedge driven in behind it.
A bowtie-shaped inlay let into a board across a split.
A plain mitre reinforced with biscuits set across the joint.
A mitre reinforced with dowels drilled square through the joint.
Two 45-degree faces with a square step between them, cut with a lock-mitre router bit.
The joint for internal corners of moulding and skirting.
A mitre where the saw is both tilted and rotated, so the joint follows two angles at once.
A tenon reduced on one side only, so its outer face is flush with the rail's outer face.
The joint at the end of a diagonal brace, cut on the same angle as the brace itself.
A mortise cut on a slope instead of square, so the tenon can be dropped in from the side and then slid home.
A scarf made by halving both ends over a length and lapping them.
A notch with a rectangular cog set in it, so the joint resists being pulled apart as well as being pushed together.
A rafter-to-plate joint where one face is cut on the dovetail slope and a wedge is driven in behind it.
The right-angled notch cut in a rafter so it sits flat and square on the wall plate.
The log-building joint: the upper log is cupped out on its underside so it saddles over the log below.
A log notch with the dovetail taper cut on one face, so the upper log can be dropped straight down over the lower one .
Two boards edge-jointed with a separate tongue — a loose spline — sitting in a groove cut in both edges.
Boards edge-jointed with dowels across the glue line.
Two boards joined with glue and nothing else.
Tongue & groove with a bead worked on the face along one edge.
A cross-grain batten tenoned onto the ends of a tabletop.
A panel captured in grooves worked into a frame of rails and stiles.
A thin strip let into a groove in the drawer side, projecting inward to carry the drawer bottom.
The flat-pack connector: a dowel bolt screwed into one panel engages a rotary cam in the other, and a quarter turn of .
A heavy bolt driven through the bed rail into a cross-dowel nut set in the leg.
A triangular block glued and screwed into an inside corner.
A small tongue screwed into a groove in the apron and to the underside of the top.
A countersunk screw with the head buried below the surface under a glued-in wooden plug cut from the same board.
A shelf housed into a dovetail channel cut across a carcase side.
A rebate whose long-grain face is undercut into a dovetail, so the mating board locks as it seats.
Two grooves cut in the mating edges, dovetailed at the base, with a separate key that is dovetailed at BOTH ends.
A sliding dovetail with only one sloped face.
格肩榫 — the tenon's shoulder is cut as a mitre rather than a square, so the rail meets the leg's corner without showing .
抱肩榫 — the leg runs on past the apron and both of the apron's shoulders are mitred, so the shoulder wraps around the le.
楔釘榫 — the joint for round members.
挖煙袋榫 — the opium-pipe corner.
大進小出榫 — a through tenon that is wide where it enters the mortise and narrow where it exits.
腰掛継ぎ — a scarf where the two ends seat into each other on a step and a wedge driven across the joint hauls them tight.
追掛け大栓継ぎ — a lapped scarf locked by two large wooden keys driven through it.
組子 — the lattice joint.
雇い実 — a loose tongue employed to join two boards.
The joint that makes a drop-leaf table work.
The finger joint used for its other purpose: joining boards END TO END to make a longer one.
A tenon whose cross-section is a dovetail, so once it is in the mortise it cannot be pulled straight out — only slid i.
A half-lap drawn up tight with a bolt and washer.
A split metal ring let into matching circular grooves in two timber faces.
A galvanised steel plate punched with teeth, pressed into both faces of a joint.
A short wavy steel strip driven across a joint on the back face.
A U-shaped galvanised hanger nailed to the beam, cradling the joist's end.
A flat plate screwed or glued over a joint to spread the load and repair a break.
Boards nailed to horizontal ledges with a diagonal brace between them.
A turned round tenon into a bored round mortise — no shoulders, no square work, and nothing to hide a bad fit.